The long awaited trip to Jaffna

February 8

Today was the long trek up to Jaffna which sits at the top of the island. We have wanted to see this part of SL since we lived here in 2005-06. Our driver arrived early and we left right at 8:30.  When we lived here roads were in bad shape, about 1.5 lanes wide with eroded shoulders. The roads were heavily used by pedestrians, cows, occasional elephants, bicyclists, tri-shaws, cars, trucks and privately owned buses  that competed for passengers by leap frogging on the highways and running others off the road literally. It took about 15 minutes to get to the expressway with  heavy morning traffic but once on the expressway it was wide open driving for 30 minutes then we were on two lane roads most of the trip.. The roads are much improved usually with shoulders but not always. But there were no by-passes around the cities/villages so it was slow going. It took us until 6:30 or 7:00 to get to Jaffna, 250 miles.

We stopped for a quick rice and curry lunch and stopped at three war monuments near Jaffna to take photos and learn about the war. 

After checking into our hotel, we left for dinner at a South Indian place that served dosas. Ron tried a dish we had never seen before called uttar. The couple sitting next to us was eating it and we asked about it. It is more like a pancake and dosas are like a wafer thin crispy crepe made from lentil flour. We came straight home and fell into bed with a mosquito net over the bed. The cople had the most adorable 2 year old son.

February 9

It was a busy day. We ate a western breakfast al fresco and watched life with many people going to work on bicycles or on foot and some on motorcycles and in cars. We saw a few temples and sites in town before heading north to the tip top of the island.

We drove north to the top of the island. We saw a fishing village, with ten or more sea eagles, a Hindu retreat center with ritual bathing facilities for men and women (separately). A new Buddhist monument (built by the previous Sinhalese government after the war ended) where King Ashok is supposed to have landed bringing a Bo tree from India some 5000 years ago.  

Everywhere we went in the north we saw evidence of the destruction of war: homes long abandoned with no windows, doors or roofs, crumbing, broken walls, etc. We also saw places where the government is building modest homes for the poor, using military personnel for the construction. The government has been using the military since the war ended to develop infrastructure and rebuild throughout the entire island. Sri Lanka is much improved as a result since we lived here. We returned to town and partook of the local delicacy..... homemade ice cream 

Afterwards we looked at the rebuilt library that had been destroyed in the war along with ancient books and documents.

We finished out the day at the Jaffna fort built by the Dutch in 1610 and enjoyed the sights and sunset.

 

 

February 10

Suba, Ron’s former coworker joined us for breakfast. We enjoyed  Sri Lanka fare again outside. We started the day shortly after 8:45 and headed for the islands again. This time we went to Nainathivu after an hour of driving and 30 minutes on a ferry. 

 This island is famous for its Buddhist and Hindu Temple. 

We opted for the Hindu temple known as Nagadeepa Temple, a highly colorful extravaganza. To go inside men must remove their shirts. It was beautifully painted with many sculptures of gods and goddesses. We walked thrugh the entire interior. It was crowded today because it is a Buddhist holiday: Poya, the full moon which is always a national holiday in SL. Suba is Hindu and explained some of the rituals taking place. 

We boarded a much older ferry for the return trip. We had to go below and I realized what a death trap it was. It was a very old wooden boat ad if you stood up you could see out to te ocean. But it there was a problem the only way out was through two small cumbersome exits which would be blocked with the rush of people in a panic to get out. I now understand why so many people die in ferry accidents. I worried the entire 15 minutes. 

We drove back to town and it was past time for lunch…around 2:00 so we went to Mango and had rice and curry, the standard SL meal whether it is breakfast, lunch or dinner. Ron and I went back to the room and rested briefly then the four of us headed to Suba’s ancestral home.  

In the back of the property was his uncle’s home and we were welcomed by his aunt and her two your daughters and later by her son. We had tea and left. We drove back to the island to Pedro Point and took photos of the full moon and an old light house. Then we went to Suba’s in laws for a lovely rice and curry dinner. Since we were getting up early the next morning we left shortly after dinner.

Suba and his in-laws

February 11

We got up at 5:30 and left by 6:00 to pick up Suba and hit the road. We drove a couple of hours before stopping for breakfast by an enterprise with funds form Swiss and and the US to help women who were widowed by the war or who had lost their homes, etc. The restaurants was right next to the highway and served meals from early morning until the evening.

We spent 10 hours getting back to Colombo, stopping for Suba and the driver to buy fresh veggies at a farmers’ market and later at a fruit stand to get fresh bananas. We ate lunch with Suba’s sister and met her two young daughters. We ran an errand after we got home and then just chilled until dinner time when we went to a nearby place that we loved when we lived here. It is a very romantic setting and a good menu of well prepared items. We shared an entree and ended with mango sorbet.

February 12-13

I went to Geetha’s to say goodbye to her three daughters. I had texted ahead to see if

Anton, his wife and buddy Ron

coming by at 11:15 was okay and Tinesh answered ‘anytime’. It turned out everyone went to church except Punitha and I waited until they returned before I had to leave. We had hugs and well wishes all around and I dashed off to meet up with Ron right before our lunch date with Anton and his wife. We went to a nearby Chinese place that was delicious. We parted afterwards in hopes that they would visit us while we are in Thailand. Shortly afterwards Lashan, a former coworker of Ron’s came over for a visit. After she left we rested, went to dinner and got ready to leave.

We go to the airport in plenty of time and waited until 1:20 a.m. to board our flight. We arrived in Bangkok at 6:00 a.m. and it was three hours before we got to Leslie’s place. We had the longest taxi queue imaginable; we guessed 200 folks. Fortunately they never ran out of taxis so the line did move but still it took us  long time to get to the front of the line.